solar sytems

Thoughts on inverter. – Things to consider.

This is a email sent in response to a gentlemens question regarding 2 120 watt solar panels and 1 trace dr 2000 watt inverter charger with trace ca-30 charge controller. I thought some of this information might be useful to other people looking into purchasing small entry level solar system or just to generally further their understanding of solar electrical energy product. The concepts are not difficult and don’t have to be complex though certain things should be considered and depending on the situation you could make it as complex as you want. The more you plan the more cost effective your PV system will be.

If you connect them toegether in parallell that is both positives and both negatives tied to the positive negative on the charge controller. Charge controller will say array (+)(-). This is where your solar panel will attach. It will probably be easiest to connect the 2 panels together on the roof and run a single wire down to the charge controller. This should be mounted as close to the batteries as possible within about abotu 6-4 FT. allowing distance from batteries to prevnt hydrogen gas corosion from ruining charge controller. Run one wire from the charge cotnroller to the batteries connect these to your batteries making sure to connect to 12 VDC. This means if you have 2 6 volt batteries they need to be in series positiv to negative tied together with one positive and one negative to each battery. If you have 12 VOLT batteries connect you batteries in parrallell that is all positives and negative chained together. If you have 4 6 volts simply do 20 in parallell and 2 in series. Be sure to use large gauge jumper wires between batteries to prevent fire from occuring. Jumpers should be at least or larger the size and rating the size of inverter wires. if inverter is to be installed it should also be close to battery pank within 4 ft. With large usually 2 gauge wires connecting to fuse then to batter bank fuse should be a proper amperage matched with inverter. This inverter needs at least a 200 amp fuse like the one I have in my store under inverters. If you bought the trace inverter, charge controller, solar panels, and 200 AMP fuse all you would need is some heavy duty connecting wires of desired length depending on application. You would have nice reliable solar system os dont forget you would also need battery bank size of your choice. They come in all shapes and sizes. The best are absorbed glass mat batteries. 2nd I would say is 6 VOLT wet cell batteries wich are common and cheap. Both will work depending on how long you need to run your system and how much maintainance your willign to do on these batteries. The absorbed glass mat are expensive but require no maintainance such as chekcing fluid, equilizinf and so on. If you have more questions feel free to ask me specifics please provide me with specific details. Hope this helps....Not as complex as it seams though there are specific details that shouldn't be overlooked when designing an efficient safe power source.

This guide requires a little knowledge of how heaters works. Basic tools and mechanical knowledge along with standard safety protocols should be used. be very careful when dealing with Propane as it highly combustable. Also ignitor wire caries an extremely high voltage and should be treated with caution. Here is what I told one customer:

Hi,

I noticed your auction for the circuit board for an older Hydroflame furnace.
Last week I started mine and it came on for about 5 minutes and then shut off ,
I waited about 10 minutes and started it again just fine but 5 minutes later it shut
off again and now it will not do anything. I have checked fuses and checked that the
12 volts is getting to it . Is there any way I can check to find out what needs replacing

Here is what I wrote him

Check to make sure there are no external air leaks into combustion chamber causing your unit to run lean and that inlet and outlet are not blocked modified or obstructed as this will change fuel mixture. If all of these criteria have been met check the flame to see if it is yellow or blue. It should be blue. If it is yellow you have an air intake restriction if blue proceed to pulling out igniter and inspect to make sure the tips are not corroded or melted or possibly bent due to long heat exposure. You can sand the igniter with 2000 grit sand paper and re-insert it. Check to make sure blower speed is adequate and motor is getting at least 12 Volts. If error speed is to slow excessive heat will build up and trigger high limit switch to activate. you may also have a fault high limit switch you can check this by attaching a test light to the output soda of the high limit switch wire which we be the white wire on a hydroflame. If light goes off you know the high limit switch triggered occurrence. Test the input side of the limit switch to verify the light is on. If it is on and you are getting good fan speed meaning a lot of airflow then suspect that the high limit switch is bad and replace it. If possible measure temp with a infrared temp gun to insure it is prematurely activating. Temp is marked on the HL. If the HLS is good and still doesnt go out I suspect the board could possibly be failing. If that is the case next step would be to test the board. Verify that you are getting power to the board when it shuts down. Check to see if board off shuts of gas valve. If there is power but shuts off gas valve suspect the sense probe wire or the board is malfunctioning.

Also, there is also a sail switch that allows voltage to the board after the motor on the blower spins creating wind. This should be an in and out wire on the heater. Sequence is power on, power applied to blower, power passes through sail switch if blower is on, then power passes through HLS If cool enough normally closed, then gas valve is opened. Good luck troubleshooting your heater.

Paul T.
Einstiens RV Parts and Electronics